Barbecue Bros AV Club: Top Chef S19E5 “Don’t Mess with BBQ”

Monk: This season of Top Chef is taking place in Houston, so we all knew a barbecue episode would be coming. That came last Thursday, so in a one-off here’s a recap of the episode much like we did with last summer’s “BBQ Brawl.”

Immediately after last week’s judging, Padma lets the cheftestants know that they will be meeting Brooke Williamson the next morning. Their collective antennae are raised and they immediately start to dread the next challenge. Otherwise, why would Padma talk to them immediately after judging?

The next day, the cheftestants meet Brooke at J-Bar-M Barbecue, one of the newer joints in Houston thats made an impression in Houston’s very crowded and competitive barbecue scene. Brooke takes them back to the pit room where the huge Moberg smokers are housed. 

You may recall that Brooke was a judge on BBQ Brawl, so she is the natural choice to lead them through this week’s episode. The Elimination Challenge is to create a dish highlighting brisket, and Brooke calls out such barbecue fusion dishes such as brisket fried rice, brisket hand rolls, and brisket pho. The next day they will serve their dishes to this week’s guest judge, famed pitmaster Greg Gatlin, as well as 20 of Texas’ best pitmasters. Today, the chefs will have until midnight to finish their dish and are relieved that they can focus on this challenge without the stress of a quickfire.

The cheftestants start off by prepping their briskets and loading them into the smokers before heading off to Whole Foods Market to get their provisions for their dishes. Once they get back from Whole Foods, they are ambushed by Tom and Brooke with a Quickfire Challenge. Technically, Brooke never said there wasn’t a Quickfire and they are challenged to make their finest Texas Toast for immunity and $10,000. She mentions Texas Toast as a barbecue side, but that seems like a bit of a stretch to me.

A few miss the point of the challenge (Buddha and Monique go French, for instance) but Nick’s BLT Texas Toast with pancetta and cheese, Jo’s mushroom and arugula Texas Toast, and Jackson’s shrimp toast with balsamic chili jam are named as the top 3. Nick takes home top honors and gets the aforementioned immunity and $10,000.

From there, the focus shifts back to the brisket challenge. The briskets are starting to take shape and Pitmaster Willow Villareal is there to guide them along the way and give pointers. As the clock nears midnight, the cheftestants are treated to a barbecue spread from J-Bar-M before wrapping their briskets and finishing up for the night. Damarr is a little anxious not knowing how his brisket will turn out until they walk in tomorrow morning. Welcome to the life of a barbecue pitmaster, Damarr!

The next day they have 1.5 hours to finish their dish and each are mostly relieved that their briskets turned out well. A few do have concerns, however: Monique only tastes the salt and pepper from her rub and not the cardamom and other spices and Ashley’s brisket is a little under-salted, so her broth will have to be “full of flavor.”

As the pitmasters walk into the J-Bar-M dining room, the chefs began to put their final touches on their dish. Speaking of pitmasters, here are the ones I spotted in addition to Greg Gatlin: Richard Orozco of Piper’s BBQ, Ara Malekian of Harlem Road Texas BBQ, Scott Moore of Tejas, Robin Wong and Quy Hoang of Blood Bros BBQ, Don Nguyen of Khoi Barbecue, Sloan Rinaldi of Texas Q, and Russell Roegel of Roegel’s BBQ.

In the top 3 are Buddha’s barbecue beef bourguignon with “barbe-jus,” beef fat potato croquete, onion jam and beet petals, Evelyn’s “Texas-style brisket curry” with aromatic rice, pickled veggies, and burnt ends crumble, and Jackson’s brisket-stuffed carpinocc pasta with cornbread crumbles and a “buerre-becue sauce” made with “North Carolina gold barbecue sauce (huh?).” Evelyn takes home the crown and the Houston chef wins on two fronts: winning the brisket challenge in Texas as well as making a curry that Padma actually loves. Very impressive, and hard to tell which one she is more pleased with.

The bottom 3 are Monique’s basic brisket, potatoes, and homemade brioche roll, Ashley’s brisket soup with creamed corn and collards where she “tried to bring Carolina barbecue into the dish,” and Jo’s “whelming” brisket pappardelle with harissa cabbage and corn that didn’t showcase the brisket enough.

In the end, Ashley goes home for her muddled mess but in my opinion Monique is very fortunate. Ashley will have another shot in Last Chance Kitchen but for now, her time is up.

If there’s any other barbecue episodes of “Top Chef” I’ll be back for a recap but that does it for now. What do you think, do you want to see another barbecue-focused episode of “Top Chef” this season?

Friday Find: “Gatlin’s BBQ is Building a Legacy as one of Houston’s Best BBQ Joints”

Monk: “BBQ Brawl” season 2 winner Erica Blaire Roby has joined forces with The Smoke Sheet newsletter on her web series “The Pit Stop with Blue Smoke Blaire.” In this episode she is in Houston speaking with business partners Greg Gatlin and Michele Wallace of the renowned barbecue restaurant Gatlin’s BBQ. She gets their backstory on how they each stumbled into the restaurant business after starting off in the corporate world.

On a side note, its good to see our friends at The Smoke Sheet getting more and more into the video game. Check out the rest of their videos at their YouTube Channel and subscribe here.

Description: Pitmaster Erica Blaire Roby (otherwise known as Blue Smoke Blaire) was recently crowned Master of Cue on Season 2 of the Food Network show BBQ Brawl. In this episode of her new web series The Pit Stop with Blue Smoke Blaire, she visits with Greg Gatlin and Michelle Wallace of Gatlin’s BBQ, one of Houston’s most highly-acclaimed BBQ joints. They discuss their journey from the corporate world into the world of BBQ and how they are building a lasting legacy in their community.

Linkdown: 6/10/20

The Wilber’s Barbecue pits have officially been refired

Congrats to Desiree Robinson of Cozy Corner Restaurant, 2020 BBQ Hall of Fame Inductee and the first African-American woman to be honored with that distinction

Backyard Barbecue Pit is a black-owned restaurant to support in the Triangle of NC

Black-owned barbecue restaurants that ship overnight nationwide: Bludso’s BBQ, Interstate Barbecue, The Bar-B-Q Shop (sauces)

Jones Bar-B-Q is among this list of black owned businesses to support

Greg Gatlin of Gatlin’s BBQ in Houston spoke with Rien Fertel in this oral history for Foodways Texas in 2013

Helen Turner of Helen’s Bar-B-Que was interviewed by the Southern Foodways in 2012

“The Cooking Gene” by Michael Twitty has been on my list and I need to get around to it

Derrick Walker’s of Smoke-A-Holics BBQ in Fort Worth is one of four pitmasters to help the backyard smoker

Lolis Eric Elie remembers David McAtee

Q – Houston, TX

IMG_5760
Name
: Q
Date: 4/6/18
Address: Terminal E International Departures (Upper Level), Houston, TX 77032
Order: Smoked Sausage and Brisket combo with coleslaw (link to menu)
Price: $17

MonkIdeally, my first taste of barbecue on a Texas trip wouldn’t be airport barbecue. But the newish Q, a Texas BBQ Smokehouse collaboration with famed Houston pitmaster Greg Gatlin, is far more authentic than your average airport barbecue restaurant. Instead of smoking offsite and trucking it in daily, they have two onsite Oyler smokers with a fancy ventilation system that they are able to keep going 24 hours a day.

Now, I know what you might be thinking – did Monk route his flight to Austin through Houston just for barbecue? While I appreciate that you might have thought that, it wasn’t so pre-planned as that. While Mrs. Monk’s flight was paid for by her job (the impetus for this trip), I went a cheaper route which included a layover and it just so happened to have a stop in Houston. I honestly didn’t realize what was where I was passing through until the morning of my flight, but luckily my 2 ½ layover would allow me plenty of time to check it out once I got to Houston.

If you are not ordering your ‘cue to take back to your gate or onto your plane to taunt your fellow travelers, there is both bar seating and some high top tables around the backside of the to-go counter and kitchen. This being a fancy OTG restaurant, I ordered via iPad at the bar and the food was brought out shortly after.

And my first taste of brisket in Texas in nearly 6 years at an airport joint was…not actually bad at all! The smaller brisket slices (the two meats totaled ½ lb total) had the peppery bark I would expect and was not the least bit dried out. Guess they have started to get the hang of those Oylers.

The all beef sausage passed muster as well, and had a nice little kick to it due to jalapeños. I’m sure there are better sausages out there, but this wasn’t half bad at all. In trying to keep it light, I opted for just one side and ordered the coleslaw which was standard.

When passing through Houston, you could do a lot worse than finding yourself at Q near gate 2 at Terminal E (just follow your nose to smell of smoke). Despite my first barbecue meal of this trip being in an airport, my Texas trip was off to a good start.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – 3 hogs
Brisket – 3.5 hogs
Sausage – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 3 hogs
Overall – 3.5 hogs