Jimmy’s Smoke House continues the Lexington barbecue tradition in Welcome

Name: Jimmy’s Smoke House
Date: 5/14/26
Address: 6043 Old U.S. Hwy 52, Lexington, NC 27295
Order: Chopped barbecue tray with fries, BBQ slaw, and baked beans with Cheerwine (link to menu)
Pricing: $

The building on Old US Highway 52 in Welcome, NC has gone through a bunch of changes in the past 3 years. After operating as Rick’s Smokehouse for about 7 years, that restaurant closed and Cafe 71 Smokehouse took its place in late 2022. While each operated under different ownership, I was impressed by the quality of both wood-smoked barbecue places in the Lexington tradition.

Cafe 71 abruptly closed before I published my review, so rather than focusing on the positive aspects of the barbecue, I attempted to read the tea leaves as to what went wrong. However, it did emerge that new owners Candy Martin and James Sink, Jr. were going to take the restaurant space over and operate as Jimmy’s Smoke House with the longtime cook from both Rick’s and Cafe 71 in the kitchen, Glenn “Speedy” Holbrook (yet another Lexington-area “Speedy” after Speedy’s Barbecue and Speedy Lohr’s). Three years later, I finally checked it out.

Martin and Sink named the restaurant for Sink’s father and opened the business in spring of 2023 and kept the same ethos when it came to the barbecue – wood smoked Lexington-style – as well as much of the same menu. One positive change she did make was moving to freshly made burgers instead of frozen patties, though I did not try it this time.

On this day, I was talked into the chopped barbecue tray. Speaking of which, they have also made the change to aluminum trays very much in the spirit of Texas barbecue. I’m on the fence as to whether this aesthetic decision is a positive change but it in no way impacts the quality of the food.

As for the barbecue itself, I did not enjoy it as much as I recalled enjoying the chopped pork at Rick’s and Cafe 71. The wood smoke pits were firing away at lunch time but for me the pork just didn’t have it on this day even after combining it with the slaw on a bun to create a sandwich with some dashes of Texas Pete thrown in for good measure.

Through some miscommunication between myself and the waitress, I got a bun on the side instead of hush puppies. I didn’t feel like waiting for an order of hush puppies but I’ve read that they switched to donut-shaped hush puppies instead of oblong. Next time. The sides I did get were standard issue crinkle cut fries, a BBQ slaw with a shade of deep red, and baked beans. Perhaps I was bummed because I didn’t get my order right but all were, let’s say, fine.

That’s not to say Jimmy’s Smoke House is not worth trying. It’s a family-owned business that by all accounts is doing things the proper way a restaurant should and thus should be supported by the community since we shouldn’t take these places for granted. I’m certainly willing to try them again the next time I find myself between Winston-Salem and Lexington.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – 4 hogs
Pork – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 3.5 hogs
Overall – 3.5 hogs

Previously:

Cafe 71 Smokehouse Closed Abruptly Amidst Allegations of Mismanagement

This is where I’d normally set the table for my visit to Cafe 71 Smokehouse, which opened up last fall in the space formerly occupied by Rick’s Smokehouse in the small town of Welcome, NC just north of Lexington. But the course of this post changed when Cafe 71 abruptly closed a few weeks ago just shy of 4 months open.

I recently visited Cafe 71 much the same way I did Rick’s three years ago, leaving Charlotte on a banker’s holiday to make the 1.5 hour drive up to Lexington for lunch. I had planned to hit two Lexington joints that day but with the Monkettes in tow, I decided not to push it.

And what I found in my tray at the time was delicious, smoky pork that filled the void of traditional wood smoking left when Rick’s Smokehouse closed last April. The slaw had a nice balance of tangy with just a hint of sweet, and the hush puppies were fresh. All in all, a good meal. It was certainly in the conversation for a 4.5 hog rating which would have matched that of Rick’s when I originally visited.

I apparently should be glad I was able to get a meal at all, because it has since come to light that Cafe 71 did not keep regular hours and would oftentimes close for the day because there was no more food available. Weird. Normally, this is what a barbecue restaurant craves: smoking tons of meat and serving the freshest, best version of of it until it runs out for the day. Then doing it all over again for the next day. For Cafe 71, it was a matter of restaurant mismanagement. Owner Newlan Spears falsely blamed it on a lack of regular kitchen staff in a recent Lexington Dispatch article but comments on the Dispatch Facebook page paint a story that goes beyond simple mismanagement: apparently no employees or vendors were getting paid. In that article, Spears complained about having 25-30 kitchen staff during his 4 months open but turns out that there is high kitchen turnover when paychecks are bouncing. Waitresses only stayed because they were getting (deservedly) tipped for their great service. Spears also had outstanding debts at Shuler Meats and Orrell’s Food Service. Here’s what was posted in the Facebook comments from a former waitress:

While the situation does not appear to be good for anyone, it does explain an odd confrontation I had as I left the restaurant. After eating (and enjoying) my meal and paying, I let the girls go to my car (parked right out front) while I did my usual routine of snapping photos – sign, smoker, woodpile, wide shot of building, etc – when Spears approached me asking why I was taking photos. I explained that it was for my barbecue blog and while he was mostly appeased in the moment, he did throw in a comment that I was making the waitresses uneasy. And I’m not going to lie, this comment bothered me a little. But now I understand that Spears probably thought I was snooping around on account of his shady business practices.

It’s a shame that Cafe 71 Smokehouse wasn’t able to give it a legit go but there’s still some good news in Lexington. Speedy’s owner Roy Dunn announced that it was relocating instead of closing, keeping the 60 year old restaurant open. Also, I was informed that a new joint called Southern Fire Pit has opened in the former Arcadia Q (which was formerly Speedy Lohr’s of Arcadia) and is smoking over wood. Both will be on my to-visit list next time I make it to Lexington.

And late breaking news that all is not lost for this location and its traditional pit. As I write this it appears based on a Facebook comment that the previous owner Rick Matthew of Rick’s Smokehouse is going to reopen a barbecue restaurant in the same space. The name? Well, apparently it will be called Jimmy’s. I can’t wait.