Linkdown: 2/23/22

This morning, Axios Charlotte brings details on the upcoming Carolina Barbecue Festival to be held May 22 at Camp North End in Charlotte. I’ve heard rumors of a Charlotte barbecue festival starting last summer from Donald himself and more recently from Garren Kirkman of Jon G’s. But this festival is shaping up to be quite the event, with a roster of notable pit bosses from Barbecue Bros favorites from all over the Carolinas including Bryan Furman of B’s Cracklin’ Barbeque (who grew up in Charlotte), Elliot Moss of Asheville’s Buxton Hall Barbecue, Nathan Monk of Lexington Barbecue, Matthew Register of Southern Smoke in Garland, Tay Nelson of Bobby’s BBQ in Fountain Inn, SC, and Brandon Shepard of Shepard’s Barbecue in Emerald Isle. Master Blend Family Farm, a family-owned farm in Kenansville, N.C., will contribute the hogs for the event.

The day looks to be full of Carolina barbecue (be it east, west, or South), beer, local music, and charity, with the proceeds going to nonprofits Piedmont Culinary Guild, World Central Kitchen and Operation Barbecue Relief. And I’m here for it.

More details and tickets at carolinabbqfest.org

Native News

John Tanner’s been making the rounds in NC lately with fruitful stops at Troutman’s Barbecue in Denton

…as well as Dickie-Do’s BBQ in Haw River where he discovered some delicious, smoky barbecue

Jon G’s will be back in Waxhaw today

Charlotte Magazine has a pretty straightforward list of Where to Get Barbecue in Charlotte for 2022

Non-Native News

Now’s your chance to get your barbecue story featured on the Southern Foodways Alliance’s Gravy Podcast

Cattleack Barbeque, Hurtado Barbecue, and Heim Barbecue make Eater Dallas’ Essential Restaurants for the city

Latest Blake’s BBQ building update

At Brett’s BBQ Shop, J.C. Reid dug the sausages

Very curious to see who Tesla gets to smoke the barbecue at what could be the “Largest Barbecue in Texas” at their Austin Gigafactory

More coverage on the passing of Rene “Ray” Rodriguez

Chef Michael Symon’s Mabel’s BBQ is expanding

AMEN

Barbecue Bros Book Club: “Michael Symon’s Playing With Fire” by Michael Symon

Not that we’re anywhere close to being qualified enough to evaluate books but more so as a public service announcement we will periodically discuss barbecue and barbecue-related books.

Monk: Michael Symon’s Playing with Fire: BBQ and More from the Grill, Smoker, and Fireplace: A Cookbook is part of a recent trend of cookbooks from barbecue personalities. See: Rodney Scott (2021), Aaron Franklin (2015), Matthew Register (2019), Christopher Prieto (2019), Ed Randolph (2019), Sam Jones (2019), and Elliott Moss (2016). Not that I mind, as it has clearly given me lots of content over the years.

As for Michael Symon’s contribution to the barbecue cookbook world (which came out in 2018), he starts off with a short “love letter to live-fire cooking” and that sets the tone for the rest of the book. Not strictly a barbecue book, Symon includes a lot of grilling recipes informed by his love of Cleveland.

Symon makes his case for “Cleveland-style barbecue,” which is “a style and menu that draw upon Cleveland’s rich cultural heritage, much of which is firmly rooted in eastern Europe.” He goes on “We season meats with Jewish deli-style pastrami spices, our kielbasa is made by a sixty-year-old Ukrainian butcher at the West Side Market, we smoke over locally sourced apple- and cherrywoods; we serve Hungarian-based sides like spaetzle and cabbage; our tangy mustard-based sauce is designed around the legendary local stadium-style mustard Bertman Ball Park.”

Outside of the typical barbecue recipes, that is what sets this book apart. I was disappointed that we only really get Symon’s perspective in the introductory letter and some of the short intros to the recipes. Contrasted with Rodney Scott’s recent book that bared so much of his barbecue soul and history, it seems like a missed opportunity.

All in all, Michael Symon’s “Playing with Fire” features nice food photography and a slightly different point of view, but is far from an essential barbecue book. I’d recommend checking out the books from Sam Jones, Elliott Moss, Rodney Scott, or Aaron Franklin first and then preview this book at your library to see if Cleveland-style barbecue and live-fire cooking with ingredients native to that region is of interest to you.

Five Reasons Why This Season of “BBQ Brawl” Was Must-See TV

A version of this post appears in this week’s Smoke Sheet newsletter, which you should absolutely subscribe to if you haven’t already.

Monk: During the past nine weeks, season two of Food Network’s BBQ Brawl provided the perfect summer show for fans of barbecue and grilling looking to get their fix on television. I would go so far as to say it was even “must see,” when very few network BBQ TV shows seem that way these days.

This season of BBQ Brawl featured a new co-host with chef Eddie Jackson, who joined Bobby Flay and Michael Symon as hosts and team captains. Flay, Jackson, and Symon picked among 12 contestants to be on their respective teams, and each week, one contestant was sent home. Then it was down to just three barbecuers for the exciting finale last week.

Here are five reasons why this season of BBQ Brawl was must-see TV.

Legit Barbecue Talent

While the first season had heavyweights such as eventual winner Lee Ann Whippen as well as the likes of Kevin Bludso, Carey Bringle, and Tuffy Stone competing, the second season didn’t quite have the same star power. But there’s no denying the barbecue bonafides of many of the contestants.

The first contestant to go home, Christina Fitzgerald, is involved with Sugarfire Smoke House, which started in St. Louis, Missouri, and is now up to 15 locations across the southern and midwestern US after a recent expansion to Dallas, Texas and Jacksonville, Florida.

Speaking of St. Louis, David Sandusky (one of the three finalists) is also from The Gateway to the West. He is the owner and pitmaster of BEAST Craft BBQ Company, which regularly shows up on “Best of” lists for that famed barbecue city. Notably, Sandusky has opened two additional BEAST Craft restaurants in the St. Louis area, and all three have received accolades.

Fellow finalist Ara Malekian is the owner and pitmaster behind Harlem Road Texas BBQ in Richmond, Texas, which is a small town about 30 minutes southwest of Houston. Shortly after the restaurant opened in 2018, Texas Monthly BBQ Editor Daniel Vaughn called Harlem Road Texas BBQ “worth the journey” from Houston, particularly for the beef rib which Malekian modeled after Louie Mueller.

Contestant Christopher Prieto opened Prime Barbecue in Knightdale, NC (15 miles east of Raleigh) in May 2020 after years of careful planning. I was a big fan of the food and beautifully decorated building during a media event pre-opening, and I need to make the trip back. Prime Barbecue sells out nearly every day and is doing a great job feeding the locals.

Oh, and let’s not forget famed pitmaster Rodney Scott as one of the judges. Not too much more needs to be said about the budding barbecue empire-builder that hasn’t already been said in countless podcasts, interviews, profiles, as well as his episode on Netflix’s Chef’s Table: BBQ episode. Scott brought BBQ star power to the judges’ table.

Real Challenges

Other competition shows like Chopped: Grill Masters feature pitmasters cooking in a kitchen with pre-smoked or pre-grilled ingredients. BBQ Brawl, on the other hand, was all live fire with the fun and drama that comes with cooking in the elements at the Star Hill Ranch outside of Austin.

For instance, Christopher Prieto had a chili mishap when the rocks of his campfire shifted from beneath the chili pot, spilling most but not all of his pot but unfortunately imparting a bitter smoke flavor to the chill. He managed to avoid going home that week, lucky for him.

Other contestants often encountered issues when they were assigned to cook some sort of dessert because of the unevenness of the heat when cooking over fire and coals. That is, other than the more classically-trained chefs in Taylor Carroll or Ara Malekian, who seemed to have little issue.

Then there’s David Sandusky, who seemingly majored in time mismanagement even while making it to the finale. The number of times he had to pivot his dish due to the live-fire not cooperating with his cooks could not be counted on one hand. Of course, this made for great TV as we never knew whether he was going to finish his food before the clock expired.

Representation of Women

This season, exactly half of the twelve contestants were women as well as two out of the final four. Contestants such as Lu Holter of Hudson, Wisconsin, Taylor Shulman Carroll of Southern Belle BBQ in Atlanta, and Brittani Bo Baker of Bubba’s Q Food Trucks in Tampa may not have won but they did well while making deep runs into the competition. 

Brittani was arguably the hottest contestant for much of the second half of the season, earning her the honor of being the first contestant stolen when Team Eddie got down to one contestant and stole her from Team Michael. When her time was up just before the finale, judge Brooke Wiliamson thanked her for representing women as well as she did.

Oh and did I mention that the winner and “Master of Cue” was also a woman? Erica Blaire Roby of Dayton, Ohio absolutely caught fire at the right time and got Bobby Flay his second win in as many seasons of the show. Blaire is a former lawyer and sommelier and now will have a significantly higher profile in the food world. I’m looking forward to seeing what she does next in her reign as “Master of Cue” and the Food Network Digital deal that comes along with it.

Overall Presentation

If I’m being honest, Food Network shows aren’t always known for their production quality. Thankfully, BBQ Brawl as a TV show took a step up in production in season two, notably in set design, cooking montages, and music.

In terms of judges, season one of BBQ Brawl featured an all-star barbecue panel in Amy Mills, Chris Lilly, and Moe Cason while season two mixed it up to great effect. The aforementioned Rodney Scott filled out the barbecue role on the panel while Top Chef: Charleston winner Brooke Williamson could intelligently critique the more technical details of the food.

And love him or hate him, Carson Kressley of Queer Eye for the Straight Guy fame added levity to the seriousness of competitions with his bubbly demeanor and sometimes-groan-inducing-but-nevertheless-clever puns.

You Can Actually Try the Contestants’ Food

Watching food competitions is one thing, but being able to taste the food from the show is even better.

In episode four “Gameday BBQ,” Prieto created what he called his “Triple Threat Wings” that are smoked, fried, and then finished on the grill. These wings actually won the advantage challenge for Team Eddie and now they are a Wednesday special at Prieto’s Prime Barbecue in Knightdale, North Carolina.

Ara Malekian smoked his famous beef rib in the finale, which wowed the judges. You can taste for yourself at Harlem Road Texas BBQ in Richmond, Texas.

You can also try a giant 30 oz. version of David Sandusky’s pork steak from the finale at Beast Craft BBQ in St. Louis, Missouri.

All in all, BBQ Brawl certainly fit the description of “must see TV” this summer for barbecue fans. In an era when very little TV is truly “must see” due to splintered audiences across network, cable, and the ever-growing number of streaming platforms, this was one show I consistently tuned in live week to week. I have yet to see whether Food Network has renewed it for a season 3, but I certainly hope we have some more BBQ Brawl to look forward to next summer.

What was your favorite part of BBQ Brawl Season 2? Are you hoping for a season 3?

Recap: BBQ Brawl S2E9 – “Future ‘Cue” & S2E10 – “Master of ‘Cue”

Monk: In a bit of a change of pace, I’m going to try my hand at TV recapping for the second season of BBQ Brawl, which airs for *checks notes* 10 episodes *gulp* on Monday nights at 9pm ET on Food Network. 10 episodes? Well let’s see how this goes…

Well barbe-cuties, it’s come down to this. After nine weeks and 10 episodes, the successful second season of BBQ Brawl came to a conclusion this week with a double episode season finale. Who will outlast the other competitors to win the title of “Master of Cue” and get a Food Network Digital deal? Will it be the quiet assassin Ara, his teammate David the Beast, the arguable MVP contestant from the second half of the season Brittani, or the resurgent Erica? Only one way to find out…

On what looks to be a very cold Texas day, Eddie announces that the advantage challenge is a “Classics Remixed” for the contestants to add smoke to a dish that normally doesn’t have it. So a chance to show some creativity in their dishes.

This advantage would be big for Team Bobby and Team Eddie because if one of them loses in the team challenge, then they are officially out of the competition. It seems after losing his number 1 draft pick last week in Christopher, Eddie is still feeling out the working relationship with Brittani. Which is a little odd, because she has proved herself time and time again, particularly when she was still on Team Michael.

In the end, Erica’s grilled peaches and cream with smoked nuts beats out Ara’s cold smoked ceviche, David’s smoked spaghetti and meatballs, and Brittani’s “angeled” (not deviled) eggs with blackened shrimp. That gives Team Bobby a head start in the “A Whole New ‘Cue” challenge to create a new style of barbecue in 2 hours. This will really be an individual challenge for each contestant to showcase their own version of what the future of barbecue is.

Erica’s “Heritage Feast” combines Moroccan and Cuban flavors, the two parts of her heritage. The mojo pork tenderloin was nicely cooked by Bobby and is “the perfect bite” according to Brooke. Her Moroccan-rubbed chicken playing off a tagine is tasty, while both her carrots in North African spices with yogurt and Moroccan-spiced oranges get plaudits.

Brittani’s “fruity cue” will have a fruit component in each dish. She goes with surf and turf but her citrus-poached lobster tail that isn’t quite fruit forward enough and her charred pork chops with peach barbecue sauce that is tasty but a little overdone. Her pasta salad is “a little basic” while her ambrosia salad with smoked apples and pineapples doesn’t wow the judges either.

Ara combines fine dining techniques with old school barbecue for his platter. His lavender lamb chops that were cooked sous vide then grilled lacks the lavender punch and the Asian seafood stew is flavorful if not a little overcrowded with too many flavors. Ara finishes with a grilled red cabbage salad with smoked trumpet mushrooms.

David believes that direct grilling with sustainable ingredients is the future of barbecue. Like Ara, he also does lamb chops but direct grills them by adding height to a kamado cooker with a metal ingredient basket. I’m not sure how much this actually changes the direct grilling dynamic that removing the deflector plate from the kamado cooker doesn’t already accomplish, but he’s feeling good about it. The judges love his smoked roasted carrot with fish sauce but his grilled calamari with charred kale isn’t cooked all the way through, resulting in a rubbery calamari. His “trumpet mushrooms pulled pork” gets dinged for not being anywhere close to tasting like pulled pork despite a similar texture.

Team Bobby is named first (again) which means Erica is going to the finale! Then, in a slight twist, Carson notifies the remaining three contestants that they are all in the bottom and have to go to the judges shed. After briefly recounting each remaining contestant’s journey and some of the issues in their dishes, Brittani goes home but not before getting props for representing women in barbecue.

Bells for Brittani, the Floridian steamroller who is only going to get better as she increases her confidence.

And with that, I am looking forward to next week’s…wait what? That’s right, we’re rolling right into the season finale! Double header, baby.

Bobby and Michael are no longer mentors. For this finale, they are sous chefs for the 6 hour “No Rules” challenge. But in addition to dinner, there will be two more unscheduled challenges along the way.

David’s mind goes right to pork steaks, which makes sense for someone from St. Louis. Ara of course goes with Texas beef ribs and wants to put Richmond, Texas on the map with a win. Erica confidently decides to do ribs with blackberry barbecue made with her dad’s competition rib rub.

A little over an hour and a half in, the judges are hungry for a burger so call a 20 minute burger challenge with Eddie joining the judges for the tasting and drinking while abstaining from any actual judging.

Ara and David initially start out both doing smash burgers while Erica is doing a Greek wagyu burger topped with feta and tzatziki. David, once again with his timing issues, eventually pivots to a backyard grilled burger. And that ends up working in his favor, and he gets the “W.” Meaning he gets to pick the judging order which will be: 1. Erica 2. Ara 3. David.

David seems to think going last will be in his favor, but the judges wonder if going first and being able to set a high bar might have been the move. Nevertheless, the contestants continue with their cooks…

A couple hours later, Brooke announces the second challenge is a loaded bake potato challenge with the winner getting Eddie as a sous chef for 30 minutes. Erica’s delicious-sounding Italian loaded baked potato in a fried potato skin reigns supreme and she puts Eddie right to work.

For the final round of judging in BBQ Brawl season 2, the judges, mentors, and three remaining contestants all sit down to a table and eat everyone’s food together. A nice touch.

Erica kicks it off with her “Louisiana southern comfort food” with every dish having a Louisiana or southern connection. Blackened snapper with shrimp creole, beer can chicken with Cajun fire hot sauce, and competition ribs with blackberry BBQ sauce are her proteins and it seems as if the ribs are a huge hit. Her corn maque choux wth fried okra has a nice textural change up, while her Spanish lemon zest almond torte finishes off the meal nicely. I do believe she has set the proverbial high bar.

Ara goes next with a meal he would cook for his friends at this restaurant with a beef rib, smoked half chicken, smoked cauliflower, Vietnamese green papaya salad, and a bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce. While Ara clearly impresses with his Texas beef rib, he may have counted on that a little too much as his other dishes don’t quite hit the mark. For instance, the bourbon caramel sauce on his bread pudding is a little on the sweet side, says Rodney.

With this final meal, David wants the judges to know where he comes from and his story through his food. He goes with reverse-seared pork steak, direct smoked chuck eye prime rib, creamed corn with okra, deep fried Brussel sprouts, and corn pudding with peaches. The pork steak is on the dry side but his chuck eye gets some praise. His Brussels may have sat in the vinegar a little too long and at that point I wonder if he regrets going last.

After the meal, the judges step away from the table to deliberate but I have to say that its Erica’s competition to lose from my perspective. Ara in second and David third on my scorecard.

The judges return and announce that the winner of BBQ Brawl and the “Master of Cue” is…Erica!

She is speechless and gracious in victory. Bobby admires her ability to keep her cool which really showed on the screen throughout the season (particularly in dealing with her teammate Terry). I’ll have more thoughts next week but considering the streak she was on, its no surprise to me that she came out on top in the finale.

Congrats to Erica Blaire, and we are looking forward to seeing how your reign goes.

What was your favorite part of BBQ Brawl season 2? Are you hoping for a season 3?